Tour of Southern Italy Pt. 3 - Capri 🍋

Capri now, hands down, goes as my favorite place on Earth. I have truly been nowhere like it and am already eager to go back! I could have walked the hills of the island all day without failing to be memorized by the natural beauty around every corner. We traveled there in late April of 2023, for which I am finally recapping our adventures in a post.

The island of Capri is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrento Peninsula, on the south side of the Gulf of Naples. There are a variety of ways to get there by boat with the most popular routes being from Naples or Sorrento.

My family was staying in Naples, so we took a 10AM ferry from the Napoli Molo Beverello port to the Capri Grande port. We booked our tickets on FerryHopper.com the night before the trip. There were some extra taxes and fees included with this booking site, but it was worth the price because the lines at the port can get very long. Many ferry rides to Capri fill up quickly, especially in the prime season of tourism (May through September).

While on our walk to the Napoli Molo Beverello, we stopped for pastries and coffee in Napoli. We arrived at the port about 40 minutes prior to our departure to pick up our tickets. The ferry ride itself lasted about 50 minutes. The waters got fairly choppy, especially when nearing the Island of Capri. Motion sickness was real. My family learned from experience, and opted to refrain from other boat rides for the rest of the afternoon at Capri.

We arrived at the island's Marina Grande around 11AM. My initial impression of the Island was breathtaking. It was about 60 degrees and sunny on our late April morning. There was not a cloud in the sky. We dressed in layers and definitely needed to shed them as we walked the beautiful hills and basked in the sunshine.

At the main port area, there were a variety of souvenir shops, cafes, and tourism companies offering private boat tours of the island as well as opportunities to see the Blue Grotto. We opted not to do this, as the ferry ride had caused a lingering sense of nausea for my sister. There were other opportunities to ride open air cars or the funicular to the center of town. Instead I encouraged the family to walk.

We took the main path and followed the signs the center of town known as Piazza Umberto I or the Piazzetta. From the port, we started on Via Truglio. It was about a 30 minute uphill walk. It was definitely worth it to see the dated architecture of some old residencies with beautiful, vibrant flora hanging from trellises. But it also got our heart rates up a little and made us work to get to the top.

Our whole experience lit up when we arrived at our destination - the Piazzetta! The blue water blended with the blue sky to make the most miraculous views. Everyone on the Island was dressed in their island best. Restaurants and patios were crowded with tourists and pastries. The shops were open for business and hosting the most beautiful garments for spring. I was in awe.

While in the main square, we scoped out some places to eat in the afternoon. We perused some shops - with signature ceramics and custom sandals signature to Capri. My mom's thirst was quenched by a fresh lemonade made with the finest Capri lemons. And of course, we took pictures as all tourists should. I was living my best life in my flashy lemon earrings for the day.

I had done a bit of research on how to spend my day in Capri through blog posts, Tripadvisor, and books. Since boat rides were off our agenda for the day, walking was going to be our best way to explore.

With just two feet, you can see so many beautiful views of the island. There are hills, so good walking shoes are definitely advised. Some of our favorite paths were Arco Naturale and Gardens of Augustus. We did one before lunch and one after lunch, so to break up our day and allow to recharge.

We started with the Gardens of Augustus. From the Piazzetta of Capri, we took Via Vittorio Emanuele to Via Federico Serena and then Via Matteotti. There was no need to memorize this, as there were a variety of signs to lead you to the destination. The gardens themselves cost 1.5 euro to enter, which was well worth the line and the price. Below are pictures of some of my favorite views.

By 1PM that day, it had warmed up to the low 70s. The heat of the Italian Sun made us parched and ready for lunch. We slowly made our way back towards the Piazzetta of Capri for some tasty Italian food. Along the way, we stopped for some photo opportunities at a local perfume shop as well as some paths lined with purple wisteria. My mom is obsessed with all things purple.

Our lunch spot was called Restaurante Al Grottino. It was located in one of the alleyways and was so tiny that it could easily be passed up. My sister had one requirement for lunch - a fresh lemon pasta. This did not disappoint! We split some salads and bread to start. Then each ordered a different pasta. My dad, of course, cannot say no to gnocchis. He loved them. I had the Caprese Ravioli, and my sister had the lemon pasta of her dreams. We enjoyed our lunch very much at this family owned restaurant. There was a photo collage on the wall showing pictures of celebrities like Adam Sandler also dining here.

After lunch we took a stroll to Arco Naturale. From the Piazzetta we follow the signs towards Villa Jovis, which wind through alleyways lined with houses and stone walls decked out with blooming vines. At the intersection with Via Matermania, we followed the signs towards Arco Naturale.

Our walk from the center of town was just one of the ways to take a look at this natural beauty. We passed some beautiful restaurants including Le Grottelle Restaurant - a place in which I would love to dine at the next time I visit. There are other routes closer to see level to see the Arc and its beauty. Pizzolungo takes tourists through more residential parts of the island and is a bit more intense.

Regardless, our views of the Arco Naturale from the overlook were spectacular. The arch is a natural limestone arch that forms a bridge between two pillars of rock. The blue water glistened in the background. My mom was exhausted at the point we got to the overlook, but confirmed that the views were totally worth it.

Once back towards the center of town again, my sister's nose lead us to the most wonderful waffle cones of gelato I have ever indulged in. The Gelateria Buonocore had a line outside and down the street, a sure sign of a good treat! Certainly well worth the wait. I had a scoop of lemon and a scoop of almond. It was the most refreshing gelato of the trip. And the cones were made while you waited. Perfecto!

To wind down the day, we did some shopping. I bought a few souvenirs for friends back home who also love lemon decor. And for myself, I purchased some handmade dinnerware from Euereka. Euereka is a family owned and operated ceramic company located in Anacapri (the farther side of the island). I was obsessed with their lemon dinnerware and therefore bought myself two pieces for my new kitchen. It. was pricey but definitely something I will utilize and treasure. Hopefully I will be back to Capri to shop at Eureka and add to my collection.

To get back to the Porto Grande de Capri, we took the funicular. This was a cable car, costing 2.50 euro per person, and transporting to from the Piazzetta in just 4 minutes. The car ran every 15 minutes. At this point, we had exhausted our walking capacity and were ready for a ride. It was a nice way to view the sunset on the island.

Our ferry left back to Napoli around 7PM, which was one of the last rides back to Napoli for the day. We wanted to maximize our time in Capri - and I am so glad we did. This was truly one of my favorite days ever. I will be back to Capri sometime again soon!

Arrivederci!

---

P.S. If I had to do it again or had more time, I would have made my way towards Anacapri. This is located on the other side of the island and contains the island's highest point - Mount Solaro. Anacapri is a quieter and more relaxed side of town. It is also where the Blue Grotto is located! Plus there are more shops and restaurants in addition to a chairlift that can take you from the center of Anacapri to the top of Mount Solaro - a sight I can only imagine would be beautiful!